Working With Photoshop

Antonio Lopez and Roger Duncan

Antonio Lopez

Antonio Lopez was a big fashion illustrator in the 70's. He was known as the Picasso of fashion illustration. He captured the pulse of style from the 60s to the 80s, and is still revered as the most inspiring illustrator by today’s practitioners. He worked with a variety of materials including pencil, pen and ink, charcoal, watercolor and polaroid film. His work appeared frequently in Vogue, Harper’s bazzar, Elle. 

In the early 60’s Antonio free-lanced for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Gentlemen’s Quarterly, and Andy Warhol’s Interview. By the end of the decade Paris beckoned where he soon established both career and a lifestyle that saw him surrounded by an entourage of beautiful men and women. Antonio was known to be the number one unpaid model scout in Europe. When he called an agent or a designer suggesting a new face, they didn’t hesitate. Jerry Hall, Pat Cleveland, Donna Mitchell, Grace Jones – all became a part of the Lopez group of beautiful people who frequented the clubs of Paris, particularly the Paris disco Club Sept.

Returning to New York during the middle of the 70s, Antonio’s work appeared in almost every fashion publication of the decade on both sides of the Atlantic. His work was always evolving and he used a variety of materials – pen and ink, pencil, charcoal, watercolor – often combining several within the same image. His unique style of illustration injected a sense of movement and energy that had been missing from the medium and he joins company with past illustrators like Erte, Bolin, Dali, and others who have had a hand in raising fashion illustration to an art form. 

The reason I like his style as it is very free and minimal. He's line work captures the drape of the fabric effortlessly and is really inspiring. It definitely catches the purpose of it and draws you in. 

Roger Duncan

There was a shape and feeling in Duncan’s dynamic brushstrokes and glowing gouache colours, which, coupled with his ability to capture a likeness in just a few lines, were much appreciated by American Vogue. They regularly commissioned from him both fashion drawings and portraits of elegantly dressed socialites.

I love Rogers pieces, they definitely fit the Parisian Chic style with the classyness and rough sketchiness of it. I definitely want to give with style ago when it comes to my illustrations. I love how its not precisely neat gives it and edge of the Parisian style. How it looks classic. 

Art Nouveau

Art Nouveau (1880 – 1910) was a reaction to academic art through the use of organic forms, curved lines, and unity with the natural environment. People embraced it by bringing this decorative style into their households and supporting it in the fine arts as well. A new style that rejected the imitation of the past. Art Nouveau embraced new materials and electrical lighting as well as modern industrialization. It is a blending of art which included art glass, painting and sculpture. A period of great exploration and the embrace of returning to nature. Art and the objects of art become a part of the interior. It was a style that was very ornamental, but it was not based on past historical design and it always referenced nature. Below are pictures that highlight "a new style for a new age". I personally find the style the quirky and very appealing. As to whether it fits my Parisian Chic I am uncertain yet, I will need to make some mock screen prints with the Art Nouveau style. 

I have started looking pattern inspiration for the Art Nouveau. I am loving how the pattern is really twisting and curving. 

A French designer I have took interest in is Louis Majorelle. I came across him whilst looking for Art Nouveau inspiration. Louis Majorelle was a French decorator and furniture designer who manufactured his own designs, in the French tradition of the cabinet making. He was one of the outstanding designers of furniture in the Art Nouveau style. The Majorelle firm's factory was designed by famous École de Nancy architect Lucien Weissenburger in the western part of Nancy. In the 1880s Majorelle turned out pastiches of Louis XV furniture styles, which he exhibited in 1894 at the Exposition d'Art Décoratif et Industriel [Exposition of Decorative and Industrial Art] in Nancy, but the influence of the glass- and furniture-maker Emile Gallé, inspired him to take his production in new directions. Beginning in the 1890s, Majorelle's furniture, embellished with inlays, took their inspiration from nature: stems of plants, waterlily leaves, tendrils, dragonflies. Before 1900 he added a metalworking atelier to the workshops, to produce drawerpulls and mounts in keeping with the fluid lines of his woodwork. His studio also was responsible for the ironwork of balconies, staircase railings, and exterior details on many buildings in Nancy at the turn of the twentieth century. Some of his original woodwork designs can still be found in Grand Hotel Moderne, Lourdes. Often collaborating on lamp designs with the Daum Frères glassworks of Nancy, he helped make the city one of the European centers of Art Nouveau. At the apogee of the Belle époque, during the 1900 Paris World's Fair,  Majorelle's designs triumphed. By 1910, Majorelle had opened shops for his furniture in Nancy, Paris, Lyon, and Lille.

Surface Pattern Inspiration...

I am looking at French architect and buildings for surface design ideas for my FMP. I am either going to screen print or embroider it. I want to use it as the back drop for my collection or as a possible print on my garments.

The first building I looked at was the Ferdinand Cheval Palace, France.

This building is very quirky and great for design inspiration. THE STORY BEHIND IT: One day, French postman Ferdinand Cheval was making a walk, suddenly a stone fell at his head. He was OK, picked up the stone and the next day returned to this place, gathered a lot of these stones and was full of eager to create a building out of the beautiful stones. He spent 33 years building this “Ideal Palace” as Ferdinand Cheval called it.

I love how the building is a simple design made up with fascinating detailing and care with each little bit that goes into it. From this you can take away the idea of putting simple things together but layering them also. This can be done with clothing as well. I can also denote some clothing aspects within it such as seeing  flared bottom trousers with in the supports. This beautiful building would be great for use in a surface design pattern by being screen printed.

This would be another good building to screen print, possibly just the silhouette and make it repetitive. I could see this being good layered over one another and changing and playing with the colours. 

Another thing I love from the French architecture is the beautiful balcony railings. The pattern in the railing is so beautiful and definitely fits the Parisian Chic style and could potentially be used for lining in garments such as the cape I plan to make.

The Eiffel tower is a clear main attraction to Paris, France. It's iconic and would suit the purpose of the Parisian Chic. Even though it being a beautiful piece of architecture its a common choice for most people looking into the parisian style. Although I would still like to incorporate in my work somehow.

"Everything that has been part of my life – whether I wanted it to or not – has expressed itself in my dresses" - Christian Dior

Christian Dior was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, also called Christian Dior, but now owned by LVMH. Dior was famous for bringing in the 'New Look' after World War 1. Dior's New Look in fashion and changed it significantly.

Dior's family had hopes he would become a diplomat, but Dior was artistic and wished to be involved in art. He was gay, though not openly so. To make money, he sold his fashion sketches outside his house for about 10 cents each. In 1928, Dior left school and received money from his father to finance a small art gallery, where he and a friend sold art by the likes of Pablo Picasso. Three years later, after the death of Dior's mother and brother and a financial disaster in the family’s fertilizer business, during the Great Depression, that resulted in his father losing control of Dior Frères, the gallery had to be closed.

From 1937, Dior was employed by the fashion designer Robert Piguet, who gave him the opportunity to design for three Piguet collections. Dior would later say that 'Robert Piguet taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true elegance must come. One of his original designs for Piguet, a day dress with a short, full skirt called 'Cafe Anglais', was particularly well received. Whilst at Piguet, Dior worked alongside Pierre Balmain, and was succeeded as house designer by Marc Bohan. Dior left Piguet when he was called up for military service.

In 1942, when Dior left the army, he joined the fashion house of Lucien Lelong, where he and Balmain were the primary designers. For the duration of World War II, Dior, as an employee of Lelong, who labored to preserve the French fashion industry during wartime for economic and artistic reasons designed dresses for the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators, as did other fashion houses that remained in business during the war, including Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, and Nina Ricci. While Dior dressed Nazi wives.

On 8 December 1946 Dior founded his fashion house, backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric magnate. The actual name of the line of his first collection, presented on 12 February 1947, was Corolle,  but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar. Dior's designs were more luxurious than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles, influenced by the rations on fabric. He was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes; Dior is quoted as saying "I have designed flower women." His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist, giving his models a very curvaceous form, inspired by the spirit of the Parisian women.

Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, which they had been unused to because of the previous limitations on fabric. There was also some backlash to Dior's designs due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit. During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, but opposition ceased as the wartime shortages ended. The "New Look" revolutionized women's dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion world after World War II.

In the 11 years before his death, Dior dictated European style. Each of his collections had a theme – the classic suit, the ballerina skirt and the H, A and Y lines that ruled the early 1950’s.

Dior was first to arrange licensed production of his designs. Furs, stockings, ties and perfume were manufactured in regional centres across the world, spreading his brand name quickly about the globe. 

Victoria Beckham Cape....