Surface Pattern Inspiration...

I am looking at French architect and buildings for surface design ideas for my FMP. I am either going to screen print or embroider it. I want to use it as the back drop for my collection or as a possible print on my garments.

The first building I looked at was the Ferdinand Cheval Palace, France.

This building is very quirky and great for design inspiration. THE STORY BEHIND IT: One day, French postman Ferdinand Cheval was making a walk, suddenly a stone fell at his head. He was OK, picked up the stone and the next day returned to this place, gathered a lot of these stones and was full of eager to create a building out of the beautiful stones. He spent 33 years building this “Ideal Palace” as Ferdinand Cheval called it.

I love how the building is a simple design made up with fascinating detailing and care with each little bit that goes into it. From this you can take away the idea of putting simple things together but layering them also. This can be done with clothing as well. I can also denote some clothing aspects within it such as seeing  flared bottom trousers with in the supports. This beautiful building would be great for use in a surface design pattern by being screen printed.

This would be another good building to screen print, possibly just the silhouette and make it repetitive. I could see this being good layered over one another and changing and playing with the colours. 

Another thing I love from the French architecture is the beautiful balcony railings. The pattern in the railing is so beautiful and definitely fits the Parisian Chic style and could potentially be used for lining in garments such as the cape I plan to make.

The Eiffel tower is a clear main attraction to Paris, France. It's iconic and would suit the purpose of the Parisian Chic. Even though it being a beautiful piece of architecture its a common choice for most people looking into the parisian style. Although I would still like to incorporate in my work somehow.

History of the cape

I got my inspiration for a cape whilst browsing on tumblr. I often reblog alot of styles of fashion and fell in love with the Chic street style, which then led me onto the Parisian Chic Style. The one idea I fell in love with was the cape jacket. Immediately I wanted to design my own version of this. 

A cape is any sleeveless outer garment, such as a poncho, but usually it is a long piece of clothing that covers only the back half of the wearer, fastening around the neck.

In fashion, the word cape usually refers to a shorter garment and cloak to a full-length version of the different types of garment. Nowadays cape/ponchos are used in raingear, a cape is usually a long and roomy protective garment worn to keep you dry in the rain. These are very efficient and do the job well, so clearly suit the purpose.

Capes were common in medieval Europe, especially when combined with a hood in the chaperon, and have had periodic returns to fashion, for example, in nineteenth-century Europe. Roman Catholic clergy wear a type of cape known as a ferraiolo, which is worn for formal events outside of a liturgical context. The cope is a liturgical vestment in the form of a cape. Capes are often highly decorated with elaborate embroidery. Capes remain in regular use as rain wear in various military units and police forces, for example in France. A gas cape was a voluminous military garment designed to give rain protection to someone wearing the bulky gas masks used in twentieth century wars.

Victorian capes were very beautifully embellished and worn by alot more women during the Victorian period. Before the Victorian period capes were often only worn my men.  In medieval times capes were worn as a status symbol. Peasents were too poor to own a cape, and could never afford the luxuary fabric they were created from. 

 Capes, especially those made of hard-to-acquire fabrics or in difficult to acquire colors, helped one determine and emphasize their social position. Capes differ in this regard from cloaks in that capes serve a purely social and extraneous function. Whereas cloaks were the clothing equivalent of swiss army knives (could be used as jacket, windbreaker, heavy duty coat, etc) capes were the province of royalty and well-to-do, who could afford to have articles of clothing for purely decorative purposes. And since knights often came from well-connected families, wearing a cape further embellished or reinforced their extreme social status. Capes were removed prior to the actual joust and were never taken into actual battle, unless the knight was particularly vain and snobbish, but that was an exception rather than a rule.

 
Some Knights wore capes that had the House Colors that they belonged to on it. Others wore it as ornamental, others for show of Prestige or class level within their house. During the Crusades the Knights for capes showing the cross of Christianity to distinguish between them and Muslims. Another reason for wearing a cape was to keep your armor clean or unscratched before a Jousting Tournament or just to keep warm. Remember they were wearing 90lbs of metal and that was not warm at all.


In full evening dress, ladies frequently use the cape as a fashion statement, or to protect the wearer or the fine fabrics of their evening-wear from the elements, especially where a coat would crush—or hide—the garment. These capes may be short (over the shoulders or to the waist) or a full-length cloak. Short capes were usually made of fur; however, because fur is less accepted as a fashion accessory in modern times, other expensive materials are substituted for it, with a luxury lining and trim. Typical fabrics used are velvet, silk and satin. Capes are still authorized as an alternative to the more utilitarian trench coat for U.S. Army officers in mess dress, formal evening uniform.


Elvis Presley was famous for his wearing of a customized cape designed by Belew. It was named the  "Aloha from Hawaii" cape. The floor-length cape, designed by Bill Belew, has an eagle design across the back composed of prong-set studs in red, blue and gold on a white ground. The cape is lined in blue satin. Presley worked closely with Belew to design a motif for the cape that represented America for the 1973 concert that was broadcast via satellite. Presley reportedly wanted to use the cape to hide behind during the Aloha intro and then drop the cape to reveal himself to the audience. The completed cape was found in rehearsals to be too heavy for the actual performance. Belew created a shorter version for the actual performance. Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Greg Howell of Elvis Presley Enterprises, Graceland.

"Everything that has been part of my life – whether I wanted it to or not – has expressed itself in my dresses" - Christian Dior

Christian Dior was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, also called Christian Dior, but now owned by LVMH. Dior was famous for bringing in the 'New Look' after World War 1. Dior's New Look in fashion and changed it significantly.

Dior's family had hopes he would become a diplomat, but Dior was artistic and wished to be involved in art. He was gay, though not openly so. To make money, he sold his fashion sketches outside his house for about 10 cents each. In 1928, Dior left school and received money from his father to finance a small art gallery, where he and a friend sold art by the likes of Pablo Picasso. Three years later, after the death of Dior's mother and brother and a financial disaster in the family’s fertilizer business, during the Great Depression, that resulted in his father losing control of Dior Frères, the gallery had to be closed.

From 1937, Dior was employed by the fashion designer Robert Piguet, who gave him the opportunity to design for three Piguet collections. Dior would later say that 'Robert Piguet taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true elegance must come. One of his original designs for Piguet, a day dress with a short, full skirt called 'Cafe Anglais', was particularly well received. Whilst at Piguet, Dior worked alongside Pierre Balmain, and was succeeded as house designer by Marc Bohan. Dior left Piguet when he was called up for military service.

In 1942, when Dior left the army, he joined the fashion house of Lucien Lelong, where he and Balmain were the primary designers. For the duration of World War II, Dior, as an employee of Lelong, who labored to preserve the French fashion industry during wartime for economic and artistic reasons designed dresses for the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators, as did other fashion houses that remained in business during the war, including Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, and Nina Ricci. While Dior dressed Nazi wives.

On 8 December 1946 Dior founded his fashion house, backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric magnate. The actual name of the line of his first collection, presented on 12 February 1947, was Corolle,  but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar. Dior's designs were more luxurious than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles, influenced by the rations on fabric. He was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes; Dior is quoted as saying "I have designed flower women." His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist, giving his models a very curvaceous form, inspired by the spirit of the Parisian women.

Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, which they had been unused to because of the previous limitations on fabric. There was also some backlash to Dior's designs due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit. During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, but opposition ceased as the wartime shortages ended. The "New Look" revolutionized women's dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion world after World War II.

In the 11 years before his death, Dior dictated European style. Each of his collections had a theme – the classic suit, the ballerina skirt and the H, A and Y lines that ruled the early 1950’s.

Dior was first to arrange licensed production of his designs. Furs, stockings, ties and perfume were manufactured in regional centres across the world, spreading his brand name quickly about the globe. 

‘I imposed black; it’s still going strong now, for black wipes outeverything else around’.

French fashion designer and founder of the Chanel brand. Chanel's philosophy was to emphasize understated elegance through her clothing. Her popularity thrived in the 1920s, because of innovative designs. Chanel's own look itself was as different and new as her creations. Instead of the usual pale-skinned, long-haired and full-bodied women preferred at the time, Chanel had a boyish figure, short cropped hair, and tanned skin. She had a distinct type of beauty that the world came to embrace.

During the 1920s, Coco Chanel became the first designer to create loose women's jerseys, traditionally used for men's underwear, creating a relaxed style for women ignoring the stiff corseted look of the time. They soon became very popular with clients, a post-war generation of women for whom the corseted restricted clothing seemed old-fashioned and impractical.

By the 1920s, Maison Chanel was established at 31, Rue Cambon in Paris (which remains its headquarters to this day) and become a fashion force to be reckoned with. Chanel became a style icon herself with her striking bob haircut and tan placing her at the cutting edge of modern style.

In 1925, Chanel launched her signature cardigan jacket, and the following year matched its success with her little black dress. Both items continue to be a staple part of every Chanel collection.

Coco Chanel worked until her death in 1971 at the age of 88, spending her last moments in the style she had become accustomed to at her opulent private apartment in The Ritz.

Karl Lagerfeld has been chief designer of Chanel's fashion house since 1982. His ability to continuously mine the Chanel archive for inspiration testifies to the importance of Coco Chanel's contribution to the world of fashion.

INSPIRTATION?

From a very young age Chanel had a difficult childhood.  At twelve years of age, Chanel’s mother passed away and within that same week she was abandoned by her father.  Because of this she was taken in by the nuns at the local orphanage. 

Chanel took comfort in learning to sew from some of the nuns.  Without the overwhelming tragedies in her childhood, Chanel might never have learned the craft of a seamstress.  As she grew up, she was determined to do more with her life.  To overcome the poverty and make a name for herself.  Leading her to open a small store specializing in linens.  After that effort failed, she attempted to make a living by singing, dancing, and acting.  Although this did not provide her with the life she wanted, she did come out of phase with her famous nickname, Coco.

Chanel began considering what she was passionate about, and what she wanted to do to fulfill her aspirations.  She believed that she wanted to focus on making hats.  She opened her first milliner shop after she met a young businessman named Arthur Capel.  With his help, she began designing and selling hats in her very own shop in Paris in 1910. Chanel's business was growing, and she began to sell clothes, as well as hats, she found happiness in designing hats and clothing, so she opened her own boutique in 1913.  Coco Chanel found something that she was passionate about, was able to express herself through, and was able to make a name for herself with.  Her initial clients were the wives of rich French men.  Chanel’s name was spread by these women, and her clientele base expanded rapidly.  Chanel funneled her energy into being both a designer and a business woman.

Chanel’s personality and designs appealed to a wide group of people, and for the first time, she became an international figure.  Chanel opened the door for dressmakers to become a part of society.  Never did Chanel design for others.  In fact, she stated, “I did not go into society because I had to design clothes. I designed clothes precisely because I did go out, because I was the first to live the life of this century.”

Chanel, as a designer, designed for her own sense of purpose.  She was inspired by the life style of her century andwaited for something in the world to influence her, and then took that inspiration and channeled it into a unique design. 

The Closure and the Comeback
Despite her great success, Chanel closed the doors of her salon in 1939, when France declared war on Germany. Other couturiers left the country, but Chanel endured the war in Paris, her future uncertain. Chanel found she could not idly stand by and observe the early success of Christian Dior, whose "New Look" prevailed in the postwar period. While many admired Dior's celebration of femininity, with full skirts and nipped-in waists, Chanel felt his designs were neither modern nor suitable for the liberated women who had survived another war by taking on active roles in society. Just as she had following World War I, Chanel set out to rescue and reinvigorate women's fashion.

The designer faced challenges in this endeavor: securing finances, assembling a new staff, seeking out new fabrics, competing at age seventy against a new generation of designers. Chanel's comeback collection of couture debuted in 1953. Although it was not a critical success, the Chanel persevered. Within three seasons, Chanel was enjoying newfound respect. She updated her classic looks, reworking the classic tweed designs until wealthy women and celebrities returned to the showroom in droves. The Chanel suit became a status symbol for a new generation, made of solid or tweed fabric, with its slim skirt and collarless jacket trimmed in braid, gold buttons, patch pockets, and—sewn into the hem—a gold-colored chain ensuring it hung properly from the shoulders. Chanel also reintroduced her handbags, jewellry, and shoes with great success in seasons.

Victoria Beckham Cape....

WORKING DESIGNS

I have started working on some design ideas from inspiration I have found and so far I like the way they are shaping up although they still need some design and embellishment work. I also need to starting thinking of material ideas and material prints, or if I am going to screen print material or embroider it. 

-L

MORE TUMBLR INSPIRATION

I think the this cut-out design is very nice and different. Normally the cut outs is on the sides on or just above the way but  having the cut out coming down towards the hip is very nice and different as well as eye catching. 

I again love the way this cut out, wrap dress looks. Having the slash between materials across the chest to waist it beautiful and can look very beautiful. I then love how the slash has a piece of connecting material to look like embellishment to just keep it in place.

The design embellishment on the centre of this dress is what caught my attention. It looks amazing and really drew me in. How 3D it is is amazing and very different. 

The embellishment on this is really amazing, and must have took so much time and care, I really love it. Its very detailed. I also love the way the shoulder parts are connected instead of having your same old shoulder seem. The shoulder looks very uniform and I really love the Military look. 

I loved the love V necked part to this dress, I would really like to be able to produce something with this style of neck lining on it. 

I scrolled past this design and fell in complete adoration of it straight away. It looks like the drawing from the Kim Kardashian collection (which will be seen below) and I really love the Fashion Week styling to it. It definitely looks like a runway piece and is very beautiful. I especially like all the care and detailing that has gone into the sketching of it. It clearly shows the different parts to the outfit. I am unsure of the artist of this design.

Kendall Jenner always has a Black and White classy style. Everyday. I adore the wardrobe choices she picks and choosing a simple pair of trousers and pairing it with a classic white t-shirt is beautiful, and shows you can make the simplest of things look good.

This Christian Dior design I immediately fell in love with because of the black classy look to it. I think Emma Watson wore it really well and I really love the way the material falls and sits and the sheer hem at the bottom with the 'shiny moons' it's such a good design and looks amazing! I definitely would like to make up my own design ideas from this and incorporate it into my work some how. 

I thought that this pattern would look great screen printed on to sheer material and used in part of one of my final designs. It could be changes around and made monochrome and would great, I really like this patter especially how it is repetitive and simple.

These are designs drawn and published by SEW_TRILL based upon Kim Kardashian and I really loved the high slitted leg in the first design that shows some leg at the top without it being called "trashy". I think it looks really sophisticated and I really love that idea. I also fell in love with second design, I love the look of the material how the blue and pink blends and all the embellishment detail that has gone into it. The high neck and long selves really set it off as-well and pull the whole outfit together.